Last Day at Leh...

Today we had to leave for Khardungla Pass, world's highest motorable pass. But somehow the circumstances forced us to stay. But I have no regrets. The day at Kendriya Vidyalaya, Leh was so good that I have no qualms about it.

View of Himalayas from inside the campus

We got up a bit late as compared to our daily routine since past 7 days. We had no target to chase!!!  Waking up to a lazy day had become a luxury and we were going to enjoy it. We all got up ready by 11 a.m., prepared some Poha for breakfast in Ravi Bhaiya's kitchen and enjoyed a dubbed Tamil movie. After 7 days, we got time to see the pictures we had taken throughout our journey. While Ravi Bhaiya was in school, we captured his Laptop and transferred and received all the photographs. After so much of hardwork, ;-)),  we started feeling hungry. Also, the guys needed to get their bikes to mechanics for some repair so that we can head back to home... ;-)
So, we went to a fine Kashmiri restaurant in the main market. The food was delicious.. Then Mohit, Aashish and Ankush went for bike repair and me n Viky went for a shopping spree... Most of the things that we got in Leh can be purchased in Delhi also (but I got to know that later!!!!) but the joy of shopping there is something you should not miss. I spent every single penny I had. I may never come back again and it should not be a regret. I got something for everybody back at home.
You can find nice T-shirts all over the market. I was searching for some T-shirts and I found every shopkeeper had similar ones. Boring!!! Then I saw a slim street going into a small market. That was not actually a street, just 3-4 shops inside. But, I discovered a wonderful shop there. The old man was selling for a bit high price but it was just worth. Moreover, he had a filmy connection to it! (Remember? I love filmy connections!). He told a story that how he sold T-shirts to Amir Khan during the shoot of 3 idiots. And how Amir bargained ( Still purchased in 5 times the normal selling price...). Now that may be an actual anecdote or just a story but I loved it. And got 4 T-shirts. I have 1 with me, rest all have been looted by friends and brothers.

Now I got extremely tired ( I am not tired! There is no Oxygen ;-)). The boys also returned from bike servicing. Its time we headed back to the school.

Playground, KV, Leh

At school, we arranged a cricket match with the teachers of KV and what a match it was! At a place where even simple jobs like walking and speaking can exhaust you, we were having a Cricket match!

That's how we ended our last day at Leh, completely enjoying. Sometimes the joy of not doing anything dwarfs the success of touching down to all major tourist attractions. It lets you enjoy the feel of the place. 
We will leave tomorrow. Let’s breathe in the air of Ladakh as much as possible (Although there is little oxygen in it ;-)).

Leh..... Living Life..

Day 2 at Leh-

After sleeping for a night in Leh, we got comfortably acclimatized to the altitude. However, not much of work could be done.

We planned to go to the famous Pangong lake by bikes. But Mohit’s health and my fears did not allow us to get on the bikes. So, Ravi Bhaiya (Mohit’s brother) booked a cab for us. We left early in the morning at around 6 a.m. as we planned to return by evening. But I would really love to stay for a night there. I can only imagine how it would be to look at the star studded deep blue sky with a tranquil lake besides surrounded by looming mountains. Even the thought of this gives me goose bumps. Never mind, it has been added to my wish list. Next time!!! Oh yes! I am coming here again. Some time in my life!

 Way to Pangong! So Serene!!!

 Caution! These roads are highly accident prone

As we left early, we did not face much of traffic. It can be very difficult to drive with huge traffic on bad road to Pangong. So it is always advisable to leave early. We were stopped by a herd of holy cows of Ladakh- Yalks.

Ladakh's holy cow

We stopped at a tea stall for Maggi and tea. The stall owner added some local herb in it and it was the yummiest Maggi I have ever had. She had a beautiful and shy daughter who posed beautifully for us. Here are some pics-

Then we left for the lake. After around one hour, we got the first glimpse of The Pangong lake. Oh My God!!! That is so beautiful. This is something someone should visit at least once. And a lot of tourists have come after the movie 3 Idiots. But one thing we forget is to maintain the dignity of the place. Why can’t we leave the habit of dropping chips packets and plastic bottles everywhere? We must know that these places are very difficult to reach let alone clean. So any junk left would remain there forever and ever. So we should not destroy such vulnerable places.


We were reaching close to Pangong and our excitement was shooting. Around 35 kms of Pangong lake lies in India and rest of around 100 km is in China.

Since this place has become famous after “3 Idiots”, we find many food stalls named after characters of 3 idiots.

 
 

 We enjoyed in the salt lake and had some great pictures taken.


 
 

Tohfa Qubool Ho!

Nothing to say!

This is one experience I find difficult to express. The beauty, serenity and tranquility of the place is ineffable.

 

 

Even the photographs are less beautiful. After having lunch, we left for Leh. While returning, we stopped at Changla Pass. Its not advisable to stay at passes, so we left early. moreover, we were so much in awe of Pangong that everything else seemed less beautiful. 

Leaving ChangLa Pass

JULEY!!!

Bharatpur to Upshi... A timeless journey

 

Where is the time and where is Leh???

 A timeless journey indeed... This part of Manali - Leh trip leaves you wandering with your soul (because you won't be able to locate any other soul in this 240 km stretch!!! Where have all the insects gone? Is there any leaf around? No!!!).

We left Bharatpur with a motive to reach Leh that is around 285 km from Bharatpur. And we could have reached! But that's a different story. Lets first know what laid ahead (Top Secret!!!)

  

At Sarchu- Ready to leave for Leh

We left Bharatpur and after around 15 minutes of drive we thanked ourselves for staying in Bharatpur as the route is really bad with 2-3 streams which become dreadful in evening and could be crossed with too much of ease in morning at around 7 in the morning. (We were told that most dreadful streams are yet to come and we passed 3 waters of around 1cm of height and kept on fearing that something huge would come... )But there is no stream after reaching Zanskar valley. At this point we leave the Himalayas and enter the plateaus of Ladakh. The shift is so immediate that you suddenly realise that there is nobody except you and your friends. Hills become barren of life or even vegetation. Here is the first time you experience the frost and loneliness of a cold desert – a vast panorama of nothing but rock and snow.

I have earlier experienced the immeasurable account of the ocean in Goa or unfathomable course of a lake (Surajtal before Baralacha la pass) or simply the majestic sky but to experience something like this with respect to land is something which can only be felt. Its probably one of the most beautiful places I have seen (I don't think anything would appear prettier to me after witnessing such varied beauty on this trip!!!)

Tents at Sarchu

At Sarchu, we got our papers checked, a small Shiv Mandir was there (And it was Shivratri. Blessed we felt!). And there we left for a journey where time loses its meaning. You just have to keep moving in the wilderness of rock, sand and snow). Although we don't  see any living being but if by any chance, you get your vehicle down in this path, try to repair it if it is morning or early afternoon, else leave it there or bring it along somehow (trucks might help) and go with fellow rider till next military camp near Pang. Because this area is habitat for snow leopards (Vikram actually saw one! Will tell later about this) and resting or to get stuck at this place in night (even with your own tent) is a bad idea.

Wilderness of rocks and sand

Last pic taken just before the fall

This seemed quite a boring journey with bad roads, too much of sun and never ending trail. We had to go some 170 km to reach Leh when suddenly Ankush lost control of the bike and we slid through the rugged road well equipped with gravel (Of all the streams, rocks or potholes,gravel is the most dangerous enemy). I was the pillion rider. Main rider can jump off the bike but pillion cannot. And as I was taking pictures, I was not wearing glove in my right hand and wearing flotters which is a sin on these roads. you must own a sturdy pair of shoes.Anyways, I got hurt badly and in extreme heat and low oxygen, started feeling unconscious. With the help of first aid box, my wounds were primarily taken care of. Then we asked for lift in a passing by truck. I travelled around 40-45 km distance in the truck while my friends were trying to repair the bike with the help of other riders. I waited for them at Pang in temporary tent.

Deserted roads to Pang

On the way to Pang

 

On the way to Pang

These pictures were taken by Vikram as I was unable to hold the camera anymore. His DSLR captured beautiful views of a deserted road. This part of the route is undoubtedly a tough one and I was so worried that I was asking every group of riders if they saw three bikes midway. Finally a group told that they have helped them and were about to reach. In around an hour they reached and all my prayers were answered.

By now, we were extremely tired and not in a condition to move ahead. We rested there and then left at around 4 in the evening. We had to travel another 173 km. A stretch of around 25 km form Pang is pure bliss. Best road and awesome beauty. Heaven! This is the pure bliss of a cold desert upto Devering. The route from Pang to Tanglang la and then further to Upshi is breathtaking (due to low oxygen;-)!!!) In fact, the road from Pang to Debring is paradise on earth. Most of the pictures available on internet are taken on this road only. But my hand did not allow me to take any pictures.

After Debring, the breathtaking climb up to the mighty Tanglang-La (17582 ft.) begins. It is around 30km stretch on a steep slope with road full of gravel. The speed came down from 90kmph to 20 kmph. In around 2 hours we reached Tanglala Pass.At the top of the pass a tiny temple and a few prayer flags flutter in the strong winds that are peculiar of this pass.

Mesmerizing Tanglang-La (17582 ft.)

Amidst the spine chilling wind, at the top of the mountain

 This is the highest pass and second motor able in the world on the way. By this time, we started feeling chilled and night was arriving. We could not stay on road, we had to reach a settlement where we could stay at night.

After that we drove all the way down to Ramsey. I being the most coward one suggested to stay there as it was already 8 in the night. But nobody listened and we rushed through the distance. Road was good and we had to reach early. 

From Rumste the whole valley of the Leh region starts and road goes along the river. The road besides the river in the night is curvy but well maintained. Sound of river definitely scares and we were speeding up cautiously. Vikram being alone rode very fast. We were just 5 kms from Upshi. suddenly, we saw him coming back. All kinds of thoughts filled our minds. We stopped and asked what happened. He looked completely scared. "Lets go back. Agey snow leopard hai" was all he could say. Rumste was 26 kms back and Upshi was 5 kms. ahead with atleast one snow leopard to cross. Decided. We all geared up. All 3 bikes just rushed together with horns screaming and headlight shining bright. Within 5 minutes, we were at Upshi. We took the hotel. Fell into our bed and woke up next morning.

Day 2 - Keylong to Sarchu...

We left Keylong as per the plan... But where are all the plans?
We were at the disposal of one of the most difficult paths and most beautiful terrain... the beauty attracts and calls us ahead to reveal most exotic views but the difficulties challenge us at every move. That makes it more desirable.

One more thing... We saw so many plastic bottles and chips packets here and there. We go to Ladakh for adventure, to know the nature, to know our country not to pollute the fragile environment. It cannot bear such load. Nature has to be respected because if it decides to take revenge, there is no escape at all. Uttarakhand tragedy and J&K floods are live examples. So please be with nature. Enjoy it without disturbing it.
 
As i told, we were unaware of what lay ahead but now when I know, I would suggest to go with large group and a guide, if possible. Lot of Zanskaris work as travel guides.  

 

Zanskaris

Punctured bike

Just when we were enjoying our ride, one of our bike gave us a jolt. At a time when we were already running late, one bike got punctured and we were all alone with our spares and tool kit. We all struggled with whatever we had but could not even take out the punctured tube let alone change it. 
Time was flying by, we started feeling hungry and helpless. (But the place was just spectacular!!!). 

When everybody was fixing the tyre, Vikram made full use of the view

Just then we saw 2 bikers, one was an NRI from New York accompanied by his friend from Hungary.They were riding with a jeep with mechanic.  Those guys helped us like anything. They helped us to change the tube and fix it again.

Great help in the middle of the crisis

 We felt so relieved, thanked them and moved ahead. After few kilometers, we faced first stream of our trip. It was really a normal stream, if we had crossed it in morning, there would not have been much water but at around 5 p.m., the waters looked scary.. (It wasn't scary, it was just that we were scared as it was our first major stream). We stopped our bikes, analyzed the flow and depth. After much analysis, we crossed it. 
 

Analysis

Inspiration!

Action

 Once we crossed it, we feared less of the waters (Only to fear more... Lots and lots were coming ahead... that too in full flow during evening. And we were just unaware).

Numerous such streams come along this route

We were thoroughly enjoying the ride through the mind numbing terrain. We were passing through highs and lows, going from one mountain to another moving towards Baralacha la pass (16050ft).

Whoosh!

Surajtal

We crossed the famous Surajtal and the view was amazing. Although, the thin road above hundreds of feet on which we were riding could be dangerous and the depth and extension of Surajtal seemed unfathomable. Even the thought sent jitters to my bones. 

Baralacha la Pass- Truly a mind numbing experience

We were crossing all the streams, increasing layers of clothing, with floaters in feet, we were freezing on Baralacha la pass. After Baralacha la, we crossed two more streams and as we were crossing them in evening, water was till waist. Totally drenched in freezing cold at around 7 in the evening, we had to travel around 40 odd kilometers to reach Sarchu. Nearest stay could be at Bharatpur. We did not know about it but as soon as we saw the glimpse of warm tents, we dropped our bags and spent our night there. It is always suggested to take a night's halt at Bharatpur or Sarchu so as to get acclimatized with altitude and low oxygen. Another reason was that 3 more streams (and the toughest of this route) were ahead of Bharatpur and streams are most dangerous in the evening. We decided to leave first thing next morning and had lavish dinner with tea and "angithi" to keep us warm.

Tents at Bharatpur

That night, we could not sleep. Either you stay at Bharatpur or Sarchu, heavy winds blow all night and the sound is deafening. Even though we were tired, we could not even sleep for an hour. It is strictly advised to take 1 whole Dimox tablet everyday and drink as much water as possible. (However, you will hardly find any toilets.. None after Keylong.) Low oxygen and AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness, read more about AMS at http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/000133.htm )  may hit any time and once it hits, it can be dangerous.

And as planned, we left for Leh with the morning light (Although packing everything made it late morning light!!! Still at 6:45 a.m., it was too early by our standard!)

 

We are leaving early and we want to reach Leh... Today!!!!